Hydrating activity of Phytomelatonin
At the Cosmetology Center of the University of Ferrara, the evaluation of themoisturizing activity of Phytomelatonin, was operated by measuring the degree of short-term skin hydration through corneometric measurements. Volunteers, whose skin has not undergone treatment in the hours preceding the test, are allowed to acclimate for at least 30 minutes before taking the measurements. Two areas of 9 cm2 are defined on the volar part of the forearm, one area is treated with the product while the other remains untreated (reference area). The product, in a quantity of 0.1 ml, is applied to the area to be treated with a spatula. Readings are performed (in groups of 3 for each detection) before the treatment (t0) and at the minutes: 5, 15, 30, 60, 90, 120 and 150 from the application. The average value for each measurement is calculated and the data thus obtained are statistically processed, with a significance level given by p ≤ 0.05. The data relating to the product are compared with those obtained in the untreated area. It can be concluded that the Phytomelatonin is effective in improving skin hydration, under the experimental conditions adopted. In particular theskin hydration increases significantly in the area treated with the product already 15 minutes after application. The increase in skin hydration remains significant for all the remaining experimental times, up to 150 minutes after application.
A protection from UV rays
Phytomelatonin exhibits a protective capacity against solar radiation. This ability was evaluated through the determination of the sun protection factor in vitro. The methodology used to evaluate this parameter uses an examination spectrophotometric according to the international method of Diffey and Robson, using a UV-VIS double beam spectrophotometer (validated instrument - 17.11.03 certification). The measurements are carried out using a 3M Transpore patch of 20 cm2, on which 2 mg / cm2 of Phytomelatonin are placed. The instrument also allows to collect the radiation dispersed by the scattering effect linked to the opalescence of the sample. The reading is performed by analyzing the spectral absorption both in the region ofGrape both in the region of'UvB. The measurement is repeated at least 6 times by varying the position of the patch. The 6 curves obtained are superimposed and analyzed using the Spectra Analysis program. The analysis of more patches, at least 3, is performed in order to obtain a greater quantity of information. The spectral data acquired between 400 and 290 nm with intervals of 0.5 nm, are used in the determination of the sun protection factor. The product was also subjected to analysis in order to determine the presence of significant peaks in the UVVIS range ((200 - 1100 nm). To this end, the product is dissolved in methanol, and a complete scan of the product is performed on the dissolution product. spectrum and subsequently, in the absence of visible peaks, the analysis is performed in the area between 200 and 400 nm Fitomelatonina peaks were observed at 232 and 207 nm. The same experimental procedure performed on the waxy fraction of Phytomelatonin shows a peak at 232 nm. Based on these results it can be stated that Phytomelatonin presents a sun protection factor such as to identify it as an excellent adjuvant in obtaining sun cosmetics.
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